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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.